By Patrick Murray
Back in 1626, five planters came from England in
search of the new world. The five planters were Conant, Balch, Trask,
Woodberry, and Palfrey. They first settled in Gloucester. Not having
any luck with the land or sea, they packed their things and set
out once again to find fertile land and a good fishing spot. This
time they landed at the top of the shoe Pond. In 1930 the Massachusetts
Bay Colony Tercentenary placed a sign by the pond that refers to
the Planters Path to their landing place behind McKay School. In
1634 land grants were issued in the general court that set up the
boundaries of Salem, Beverly, Peabody, Wenham and Manchester. The
planters were granted 1000 acres of land in 1636, which settled
North Beverly.
Today North Beverly begins at Kittredge Crossing.
For those who don’t know, it’s where the train tracks meet Cabot
Street next to Dairy Queen. North Beverly continues up Cabot to
Fosters
Corner. This is the intersection in front of the North Beverly
Fire
Station. You could go down McKay Street or Conant Street and
still be in North Beverly. Dodge Street and Enon Street were the
most populated because of the train station and Wenham Lake. North
Beverly also consists of Dodge's
Row, Brimbal Avenue, and Tozer Road.
In the early 1900’s trolley or streetcars linked
virtually every city. It came from Boston through cities like Lynn
and Salem. The trolley ran right through North Beverly. It went
up Cabot and turned onto Dodge, and then it turned onto Enon Street
where it went right into Wenham, a good old five-cent trolley ride.
These rails ran until 1937. Two years later it was substituted with
a bus service that went from Beverly up to Hamilton. Horse and carriages
were still big in these days. Its uses varied from transporting
people, hay, ice from Wenham Lake and even as a portable washing
machine. The Star Family Laundry delivery wagon only charged you
50 cents per box and it was on Enon and Dodge Street five days a
week. North
Beverly also had a train
station on Enon
Street right at Dodge Row Crossing. It had a freight house that
was used for unloading and storing less than a carload freight shipment.
There used to be tracks
that crossed Enon Street and went to Wenham Lake so they could
get the ice from the lake on the train.
The tracks went from Boston to Maine. North Beverly has the only
airport in Beverly. In 1931 the Beverly Aero Club leased land from
Swift and Hood. The airport
had grass runways and one hanger. It occasionally had commercial
airliners, warplanes and blimps but consisted mostly of private
planes.
Agriculture was the region's chief economic activity,
so North Beverly had a lot of farms. Cherry
Hill Farm owned by H.P. Hood & Sons was probably the best
known. It was a model dairy operation that provided an educational
experience for both children and adults. At the center of the farm
were cow barns where there was a milk processing plant and an ice
cream shop. It also had a picnic area with swings, see saws, slides,
a horseshoe pit, and a musical shell for concerts. Thousands of
families visited this farm each year. Hood closed the farm because
it was not financially self-sustaining. The buildings were soon
badly vandalized and eventually burned down. Hood never rebuilt
the farm. It’s now an attractive feature for the growing industrial
community.[1]
There was also Raymond Farm near the golf course on McKay Street.
It’s now all residential houses. North Beverly had its share of
greenhouses. Mr. Potter had greenhouses and Caldwell had greenhouses
and a great dairy farm. In 1930 there was a farm produce stand right
where Memorial Middle School is today.
Wenham Lake was world-renowned for its crystal
clear purity. There were several icehouses
around Wenham Lake in the early 1900’s where they stored the cut
ice. The ice was first cut, and then it was brought to shore with
long poles, which is known as prodding the ice, to a conveyor that
lifted it to the icehouse.
They used layers of straw to prevent the ice from melting, and then
it was put on the train and sent by vessel to every corner of the
earth. On July fifth 1937 at 6 in the morning a spectacular fire
completely demolished seven icehouses, boiler plants and other buildings
in North Beverly resulting in a loss of 50,000 dollars. The mechanical
refrigerator put an end to natural ice. Wenham Lake is used to supply
its neighboring towns with drinking water. Beverly and Salem each
have a pumping station in North Beverly. Salem used to have a reservoir
in North Beverly but it is now filled. The Beverly Commons Luxury
Apartments and other businesses along Tozer Road is where it used
to be[2].
Bakers Tavern at the corner
of Cabot and Dodge was a colonial stage coach tavern that stood
until 1906 when the North Beverly Fire Station was built on it’s
site. The first cotton
mill in America was stood behind it. Built in 1787, the mill
was a three-story building of brick construction that measured about
60 feet long and 25 feet wide. It had a deep cellar at one end where
a pair of horses furnished power for the mill by turning a shaft
that was in turn connected to the machines upstairs through gears
and belts. In one corner of the lot was a dye house and nearby was
a well at which George Washington on October 30,1789 was said to
have paused for a drink. He said, “The whole seemed perfect, and
the cotton stuffs which they turn out, excellent of their kind.”
The mill was burned down in 1828 and was not rebuilt.[3]
North Beverly was home
to a lot of French Canadians, Germans, and English. It was also
home to the Second Congregational Church at the corner of Cabot
Street and Conant Street, whicht was erected in 1714. A bell tower
was added in 1753 and in 1837 the building was turned and moved
a bit to the north. In 1897 the Victorian era colored twin panel
windows were put in, but in 1929 clear glass windows were installed
and a colonial style chancel was added. Edwin L. Millet was in charge
of the Sunday school there in the early 1900’s[4].
The church was also used as a Men & Women’s Club. The church
still stands today. The North Beverly Cemetery is right behind the
church and has been for about 200 years. In the early 1900’s, various
scouts and military personnel who gathered for the traditional services
of honoring the dead held Memorial Day exercises.
The Dodge’s Row School was a single room schoolhouse
at 250 Dodge Street until it burned down on October fifth, 1905.
The old Bass River School was built in 1906 at 30 Conant Street
after the Dodges Row School had burned down and its students transferred
here. Its principal was Charles S. Brown. The Winslow School, now
known as McKay School, was built at the head of the Shoe Pond in
1910. It lost its unique appearance with the removal of its Flemish
gables.[5]
North Beverly’s fire
station was built in 1906 at two Dodge
Street on the site of Baker’s Tavern to replace the earlier
hose house up on Conant Street. Teams of horses were kept in the
building before the apparatus became mechanized. Engine number five
and ladder
number three were held there. On Conant Street hose
number three was held with Willard E. Caldwell as captain[6].
Beverly police patrols North Beverly but it does not have a station
there.
The United Shoe Machinery Club House was built
in 1910 as a recreational facility for its employees. Its Scottish
Tudor-Style architecture with both small and large gables really
makes it stick out. Its tennis courts and landscaped grounds added
to the clubs appeal and charm. The United Shoe Machinery Athletic
Association was organized that same year and held it’s annual meeting
the first Tuesday in September at the clubhouse.[7]
The North Beverly Community Club announces the Independence Day
celebration. In the early 1900’s North Beverly hosted a Forth of
July bonfire every year. This took place at what is now the North
Beverly Plaza. Each year they added another layer of barrels. The
last bonfire
that the had was in 1955, and the barrels were stacked 110 feet
high with 35 layers of barrels, hay, and tires. North Beverly also
had its own baseball team. The North
Beverly Baseball Team played on Lovett Field at VittoriPark
across from the Second Congregational Church.
North Beverly is full of prosperity in the early
1900’s. The suburban life we know so well today was made possible
in large part by the mobility of the trolley and the train. Businesses
like the United Shoe Machinery Company, the ice company at Wenham
Lake, the Cherry Hill Farm and the Cotton Mill became nationally
and world renowned because of this. Other businesses grew and thrived
off of this. North Beverly became a great place to live because
of all these things, and will continue to be a great place to live
for years to come.
Footnotes
[1]
Richard Symmes, North Beverly Remembered
[2]
Richard Symmes, North Beverly Remembered
[3]
John Hardy Wright, Images of America, Beverly (Arcadia 2000),
92
[4]
City of Beverly, City Directory 1911
[5]
John Hardy Wright, Images of America, Beverly (Arcadia 2000),
86
[6]
City of Beverly, City Directory 1905
[7]
John Hardy Wright, Images of America, Beverly (Arcadia 2000),
71
.
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